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DR-M10 Guide to problems

Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 1:21 pm
by andywilks
Below is a list of known problems for these machines.

The faults listed will require someone with good soldering skills etc to perform a satisfactory repair, so we advise against 'having a go' yourself if you have no knowledge.

The answers should hopefully cover all possibilities, so please don't just email me asking the same things that are covered here.only email me after you have tried the remedies suggested- and if you still have a problem please.


If however you have a different problem to report, or some knowledge to impart then please do let us know.


DR-M10 problems:

The main fault in common with a lot of other models is the power supply. Nearly every machine by now will have failed like this at least once. This will usually give the flashing 'LOADING' on the display.

There are numerous possibilities for causing the onboard micro computer to 'crash' and give this flashing.

Normally it will be one of the cylindrical capacitors on the power board
C5202 C5207 C5208 that may be bulging or leaking and need replacing.
Most now may also need the smaller 100u capacitors changing - C5307 5308 etc. and the smaller C5304/5305. Ideally use an oscilloscope to check for 'ripple' on the positive pins to prove which.

Originally the 'loading' symptom was cured by modifying the micro pcb by the addition of some resistors. A stop gap measure as it turned out.. Early machines may still benefit from this doing, but most will have been either modded by a JVC workshop by now or 'in production' Check/repair the main power supply FIRST.

As with the DRM1 you may also get the 'Dead' symptom. It will nearly always fail when in standby as the fan doesn't run then and the power Ic on the small aluminium block near the fan will fail- sometimes exploding, other times just tripping when hot.

If by unplugging and plugging back in , you can restart the supply this will prove which of the above has occurred.

If it is just tripping, replacing the STRG6653, making sure it seats fully onto its aluminium block, and replacing any of the tall cylindrical capacitors that look distressed (bulging tops or leaking around base) will normally cure it.

*BEWARE* the big capacitor near the heatsink can hold near 400volts on it even when its been unplugged for some time!!! Likes to shake hands if you touch it

If the STRG6653 has cracked then you will need to replace the following parts which will have been damaged when it blew.


1- IC5101 STRG6653
2- PC5101 opto coupler
3- C5103
4- R5107 microscopic surface mounted under the board
5- R5108
6- R5109 microscopic surface mounted under the board
7- F5001 fuse


Other than the above these have been generally reliable, but odd disc reading problems being caused by a duff DVD-r drive can occur.

Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 1:51 pm
by cloky43
Andy so sorry to "disturb" you but having followed exactly the instruction given by you following a dead power unit on my DR-MH30SE. All components has been changed with new ones but when I applied power again I observed smoking coming out from D5203/D5301 area and after a couple of seconds the IC5101 exploded again in a few pieces. The fuse F5001 is still ok. What else shall I do next? Somebody told me that I was in needing to change the whole power supply board but when I asked to the service they asked to me 160 euros only for that. At this stage I can buy a new one at least of a different brand. What would you suggest apart throwing the recorder through the window? and how can I eventually recover the recorded sessions on the HDD? thanks

Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 2:41 pm
by andywilks
My advice when a unit like this has blown up and is obviously unstable would be to abandon that power supply now. Given the age of these recorders I would imagine a used working one could be found on Ebay for very little money (especially if the hdd is faulty). Putting your hdd in that machine would be the best option.
Bear in mind that all old machines will have the same power supply weakness. Not many actually smoke and blow up, they just need the capacitors.

Andrew

Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 10:55 pm
by cloky43
Thanks Andy for your answer. I think there is nothing else to do at this stage. I've tried on ebay but prices are still high (100 euro). I've seen DR-MH20 offered at 80 E. but do think I can use it with the DR-MH30SE hdd? has it the same caractheristics? thanks for your help..ciao
Claudio

Posted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 10:52 am
by andywilks
Hi

DRMH20 and 30 HDDs will not interchange, sorry.

Andrew

DR-MH30SE kept switched off

Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 2:54 pm
by cloky43
Hi Andrew finally I've got a DR-MH30SE perfectly working from Austria at a cheap price but it is in german set and no way to set it to italian. However I' ve changed the HDD and put my italian one and now it works perfect! thanks to your suggestions. My question is now, since I'm not using it often, is it advisable to keep it switched-off all the time and only now and then to switch it on for short time just for the electrolitics, or maybe this practice could take it to a faster end?
thanks and ciao
Claudio